The Moray Gravel Trail

At the end of 2025, Ashley Cordingley and Kerry MacPhee set a new Fastest Known Time (FKT) of just over 8 hours on the Moray Trail. Reading about their achievements, I was inspired to write this piece about my own journey on the Moray Trail, which starts and finishes in my home town of Grantown-on-Spey.

Meet Jim Sutherland

For over thirty years, I have guided in the mountains, on the crags and down the trails all over Scotland. Since moving to Strathspey from the west coast, I have been a bike guide for Wilderness Scotland. For much of the year, my passion is long distance, multi-day bikepacking routes. These may begin from my doorstep or cover other areas in Scotland, as well as further afield, such as the United States or western Europe.

Spectacular landscapes are such a highlight. But I also enjoy challenging myself with the day-to-day efforts that these long routes demand.

The Moray Trail Gravel Biking

Kerry and Cordingley’s joint achievement got me thinking about the Moray Trail, which I have ridden many times in various styles. One of my personal favourite sections is now featured on our Gravel Biking – Highland Gravel Trail. Read on to discover more about the route through the eyes of a local; I hope you enjoy coming along for the ride.

Before setting off from Grantown-on-Spey, be sure to stop in at KJ’s Bothy Bakery. The bakery is the new home for the spirit of the great Mountain Cafe, formerly in nearby Aviemore, and the perfect spot for a delicious coffee and scone.

Fed and caffeinated, begin following the route along the mighty River Spey. Note the distilleries that line the river all the way up to the Moray Coast at Spey Bay.

One of the highlights of this section is the ascent and view from Ben Aigan. Here, you’ll see across the river, farmlands and settlements all the way down to the sea.

Into Fochabers

This is then followed by a whooping, swooping descent to Fochabers. There is nothing too rocky or technical, but it is steeper and more committing than anything else on the route.

A well-set-up gravel bike is suitable for this section, although some riders might need to exercise caution on the singletrack descent off this peak. Make sure that you don’t miss the left-hand turn for this.

Lunch Stop

Depending upon the time of day, the temptations of The Fochabers Fish Bar might prove irresistible. I remember a very wet Friday in late May, riding with a pal. We had a late start, and the chippy was an absolute oasis that day. A sanctuary where we inhaled fish & chips, cans of Coke, and even a deep-fried Mars bar!

Whilst enjoying this late lunch, we hung our wet waterproofs and insulating layers discreetly around us to dry in the hope that we might set off again in damp but slightly warmed riding clothes. This was our only stop on our 113 km/70 mile ride that day, and what a stop it was.

Lossiemouth is a perfect location for a quick resupply stop. Alternatively, The Harbour Lights makes for an excellent full-blown café extravaganza. By this point, I am usually pretty stoked about the Roseisle section ahead, so I now tend to ride on to Hopeman and onto the paved cycleway. Yet do take the time to rest in Lossiemouth if you prefer.

The History of Roseisle

As you ride into Roseisle, keep your wits about you as the route heads into the caravan park; it is very easy to get separated if you are in a group. Riding on these sandy trails through the pine forest with the occasional sound of the distant waves is one of my favourite places to be.

During World War II, military planners identified Roseisle as a potential landing area for a German invasion. As a result, you will see old pillboxes, anti-tank cubes and gun emplacements all around you. Take time to reflect on what this coastline must have been like then, compared to the fantastic recreational area we all now have access to.

The final section out of Roseisle to Findhorn is incredible. You will ride on a perfect sandy trail framed by pine trees with the beach on your right shoulder. The Moray Firth is right there, and the views extend west to our destination, Findhorn, and Culbin Forest. Take a look back over your shoulder to the north, too. On a clear day, you might see the beautiful triangular peak of Morven, one of the distinctive mountains across the bay in Caithness.

Points of Interest in Findhorn

After leaving Findhorn, the route follows a cycleway which gives clear views of Findhorn Bay and Culbin Forest to the right. Once past the edge of the village, all trails head to The Phoenix Cafe and its delights. If you are not visiting the cafe but want some supplies, you can find a lovely shop at the other end of the car park, just after the entrance to the Findhorn Foundation.

Shortly after, you will also pass a very poignant piece of local history for this area – a static Hawker Siddeley Nimrod plane. The Nimrod was in service with the RAF from 1969 to 2010 and was a recognisable silhouette in the skies above these parts, where there are long-established military bases. Some of the guys who taught me to winter climb worked on these beautiful aircraft.

Points of Interest in Kinloss

Riding along, you will soon arrive at the village of Kinloss, and the NCN Route 1 turns right here. If you have a spare half hour or so, I recommend taking a look at Kinloss Cistercian Abbey across the road, founded here in 1150. Back onto the route, and you will now enjoy a flat, open and scenic ride towards the distinctive red door of Benromach Distillery.

Into Forres

After this possible Point of Interest, keep the forward momentum going. Carefully pick your way across the busy A96, through the first roundabout and onto the A940. At this point, the marked NCN route passes through some built-up areas before joining the old railway line to Grantown-on-Spey. Over the years, I have found it is better to keep on the A940 for a wee while. Then, take the Rafford back road until near Mannachie Farm and the Dallas Dhu distillery to join the Dava Way. Either way, take the time to study this part before heading off, and pay attention to your guide.

The Dava Way traverses an old railway line from Forres, up to the summit at 320 m/1,050 ft, before reaching the Victorian village of Grantown-on-Spey. The route passes through an incredible variety of landscapes, starting at the coast and passing through historic farmland, cultivated for many generations.

As the Dava Way approaches its highest point, there is a much more exposed and remote feel to it. It would not be a pleasure to linger in poor weather, or try to eke out an existence as a crofter in the 1800s! The flip side to this is an incredible feeling of space as you pass here. The skies are huge on a clear day and studded with stars on a clear night. Finally, the Cromdale Hills and the mighty Cairngorm mountains come into sight, dominating the view on this last section.

A Castle Appears

You should now remain on a disused railway line through rich farmland before descending through Castle Grant Estate. The Moray Trail follows the Dava Way for almost all of the 37 km/23 miles back to Grantown-on-Spey, with only a short diversion onto the A940 for about a mile.

Not only is the route heading back to my home, but it also passes through farmlands where my relatives farmed for many, many years. My grandfather was a gardener at one of the estates here, too. I sometimes like to stop at views or buildings I know and think about what life was like here nearly 100 years ago.

The Knock of Braemoray

The Knock of Braemoray, 456 m/1,496 ft, is the local high point. The hill serves as a helpful reference point for progress as the Dava Way snakes south through and around the evocatively named ruins or farms with names like Clashdhu, Balvlair and The Bantrach.

South of The Knock, take time to visit ‘The Halfway Hut’, now a tiny museum run by The Dava Way Association. Whatever direction I am heading, it is very unusual for me to ride past this lovely little shed without stopping to go inside. There is enough space for two or three folk to nip in and have a look around, or, if the weather is poor, take shelter to get some food and put on extra layers. Don’t forget to write your name and a comment or two in the visitor’s book as well.