My Overnight Journey on the Shetland Ferry

The evening we travelled north, the Port of Aberdeen had that particular mix of salty air, crying seagulls and quiet excitement that only harbours seem to hold. Boarding the overnight ferry feels different from catching a train or a flight; it’s slower, more intentional. You can still feel the traces of the Golden Age of Sail in the experience.

Below, read through some popular queries and travel tips for making the most out of your ferry journey.

Before boarding, I had pictured a fairly utilitarian experience, simply getting on board, sleeping, and getting off again. The truth was a delightful surprise.

Within moments of stepping aboard, the Aberdeen to Shetland ferry felt less like a practical, efficient transport option. The ship is more like a small hotel floating quietly into the setting sun. After a hearty dinner, a wander on deck to spot dolphins, and even a browse in the shop, I felt far more like a 20th-century adventuress setting sail down the Nile. I remain surprised not to have encountered Hercule Poirot himself.

What Is There to Do on Board?

More than you might expect.

There are three options to order food and other refreshments from: the Feast Restaurant, the Magnus Lounge, and at the Midship Bar. Dinner was a wonderfully warm affair after the refreshing North Sea air out on deck. We headed to the restaurant, where it had to be fish and chips for my husband. I don’t eat meat, but not to worry; there was a good selection to enjoy, including macaroni and cheese, jacket potatoes and paninis with a choice of fillings.

After dinner, we turned in for the night, but there was plenty more to enjoy on board:

Arriving in Lerwick as dawn light spills across the water and low hills rise on either side of the boat feels rather magical. After a night at sea, stepping ashore feels like arriving somewhere truly separate and unique.

How Long Should You Spend in Shetland?

We spent the whole week exploring as many islands as we could, immersing ourselves in the history, culture and many, many cosy cafes.

A short visit of 3–4 days gives a taste, but ideally you’ll want a week or more. Shetland isn’t just one island, and exploring different corners — coastlines, archaeological sites, smaller isles — takes time. The pace is slower here, and that’s part of its charm.

What surprised me the most about an overnight ferry crossing wasn’t any single facility. They were all lovely, of course, but it was the atmosphere that stood out the most. Here was a mix of locals and first-time visitors alike, enjoying an unhurried journey north. As we sat down in the restaurant to choose between a continental or cooked breakfast after a good night’s sleep in our cabin, we were well rested and raring to get to Shetland and start exploring.

While the NorthLink overnight ferry to Shetland might not be the quickest way to reach the islands from Scotland, for me, there is no way I would rather travel there. In fact, that’s exactly what we’re planning for our return trip to Shetland in the near future.