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    Isle of Raasay

    Author: Kate Wilson
    More by Kate

    The Magic of Raasay

    The Isle of Raasay, derived from the Old Norse meaning the Island of the Roe Deer, is a 12 mile long, 3 mile wide island nestled between the Isle of Skye to the west and Applecross on the mainland. To the north lie the tiny Isles of Rona, Fladda and Eilean Tighe and to its south sits the Isle of Scalpay. Surrounded by the Sound of Raasay and the Inner Sound, this small and relatively remote island is home to around 195 people. It is only accessible to the public by taking the Calmac Ferry from Sconser on the Isle of Skye over to Clachan on the south end of the island.

    In contrast to its neighbour, the Isle of Skye, Raasay’s landscape is more varied, less harsh, but equally beautiful. Quieter than Skye, Raasay has a lot to offer with its lush woodlands and glens, spectacular secluded bays, white sandy beaches, rocky outcrops, heather moors and its very own extinct volcano! It’s true what it says on the Isle of Raasay website: “one visit to Raasay is never enough!”

    Formation & Geology

    The formation of Raasay began many billions of years ago, with the landscape we see today a result of a series of tectonic plate movements, volcanic eruptions, the deposition of sediments, and the actions of glaciation. The oldest rocks not just on Raasay but in the whole of Scotland are the Lewisian Gneiss Complex. These are up to 3 billion years old, and on Raasay, they are predominantly found in the very north of the island. Siltstone, mudstone, limestone, sandstone, basalt and granite can all be found on the island and were laid down or erupted at various points in the geological timeline.

    The youngest rocks on the island date to between 66 and 23 million years ago. It was within this period that the highest point on the island was formed, Dùn Can. Sitting at a height of 443m, this peak is composed of basalt and gabbro, cooled lava that once erupted from the volcano and has subsequently been shaped by the movement of glaciers during the last ice age. The island is truly a geologist’s paradise, and its varied and fascinating geology has created a plethora of places for us to enjoy and explore, ranging from coastlines to woodlands to mountain habitats.

    A dramatic landscape photograph of rugged mountains under a cloudy sky.

    Dun Caan, Raasay

    The glacier scraped away at Dùn Can, leaving it with its iconic and very recognisable flat top, which can be spotted from afar over on the Isle of Skye. Many visitors to the island will walk up Dùn Can, and although not a particularly tall hill, the walk should not be underestimated. The route is boggy, has some steep sections and can be hard to find in places. However, the views from the top make all the hard work worth it. It is said to be so spectacular that when Johnson and Boswell visited in 1773 as part of their famous tour of the Hebridean Islands, it is noted that Boswell was so astounded by the views from the summit that he danced a jig!

    The island truly is a geologists’ paradise and the very varied and interesting geology of the island has created a plethora of places for us to enjoy and explore from coastline to woodland to mountain habitats.

    History of Raasay


    Clan Ownership and the Highland Clearances


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    Although a small island, the Isle of Raasay is bursting with history. From the early 16th century to 1843, the island was in the ownership of Clan Macleod of Lewis. The various chiefs of the clan had enjoyed a life of luxury and had accrued significant debts from extravagant investments such as the building of the mansion, Raasay House. The last Macleod Chief and owner of Raasay, John MacLeod, attempted to avoid bankruptcy by evicting people living in the south of the island to make way for more profitable sheep farms. This tactic was unsuccessful, and the island was ultimately sold. This marked the beginning of the Highland Clearances in Raasay, and after being purchased by George Rainy, a merchant trader, the clearances on the island continued.

    In 1841, the villages of Upper and Lower Hallaig had a population of 129; by the 1891 census, no one remained to be counted. This pattern was repeated throughout the island, particularly in the more fertile central and southern regions. Whilst some moved north to scrape out a living on the small pieces of land not suited for Rainy’s sheep and deer farming, others were forcibly evicted from the island. It is thought that perhaps half of the entire population of Raasay was evicted. Some moved to Skye or over to the mainland, others emigrated further afield to Canada or Australia. It wasn’t just George Rainy who evicted his tenants; Rainy was succeeded by a series of lairds just as bad. Eventually, in 1923, the island was bought by the Board of Agriculture for Scotland, by which time many people had relocated, having grown tired of trying to eke out an existence.


    The Ironstone Mine and Industrial Change


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    In 1911, Raasay was sold to William Baird & Company of Coatbridge, who opened an Ironstone mine in the south of the island. The village of Inverarish was largely developed at this time to accommodate the workers for the mine. The outbreak of WWI led to an increased demand for iron and provided free labour in the form of German Prisoners of War. At the end of the war, any remaining prisoners were repatriated, and with the drop in value of Raasay Iron, the mines closed in 1918. Although the mine shafts cannot be visited, the entrances can be seen along with the ruins of the processing works and various other associated buildings. The remains of the railway used to transport the iron ore down the hill for processing can also be seen. There is a 4.35 mile (7km) loop from Inverarish that takes in these sites, which includes walking along a section of track known as the Burma Road, named by the men who built it because of the dense forest they encountered during the building process.


    Raasay Today: Ownership and Community


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    Currently, the Isle of Raasay is not owned by any one person, but rather by a variety of organisations, companies, crofters, and private landowners. Raasay has a community council that serves as a voice for the community’s residents.

    The island also has a development trust that works on projects to improve the island’s infrastructure, provide opportunities, and benefit the community in terms of welfare and sustainability.

    Calum’s Road

    Three people and a dog stand next to a road sign for 'Calum's Road' in a grassy, hilly landscape.

    All roads lead to Calum’s Road

    Arguably, the most notable and most inspiring person to come from the Isle of Raasay is Calum Macleod of Arnish. Calum, born in 1911, spent his entire life in Arnish, a small village located at the northernmost end of Raasay. The tale of his life is captivating, but what really threw him into the spotlight was the fact that he built his own road. Traditionally, the road ended at Brochel Castle, 1.86 miles (3km) away from Arnish. His requests for the road to be extended were repeatedly turned down, so he took matters into his own hands and began building the road himself. The road took 10 years to build and was completed by hand, using a pick, shovel, and wheelbarrow. The work was arduous and slow going, which is not surprising given the nature of the land he was working in. One must remember that this is the north of Raasay, the area deemed unfit for sheep during the clearances of the late 1800s/early 1900s. It is a rocky, undulating place sitting right above the sea.

    For the full story of Calum’s plight, I thoroughly recommend reading ‘Calum’s Road’ by Roger Hutchinson. In addition to providing readers with an account of Calum’s life and an insight into the construction of his road, it also offers a history of not just the island but also the lives of everyone in the community.

    Today, Calum’s Road would be better described as a track, but you can indeed drive (certain vehicles that is) along it to Calum’s old house. You can always leave the car at Brochel Castle and follow the road on foot or by mountain bike. You’ll know you’re on it as there is a road sign announcing it, as well as a commemorative cairn and some pieces of Calum’s equipment sitting rusting by the roadside. Continue onto the footpath, and you can traverse across the steep, rocky hillside before descending to the shore, where, at low tide, you can cross over to the Island of Fladda to explore.

    Two people wearing backpacks are walking on a dirt path towards a large lake and mountains.

    Exploring Raasay on foot

    There are plenty of walks to choose from on the island and most, if not all will have some form of historical link. You can visit the deserted clearance villages of Screapadal and Hallaig or check out the ruins of Brochel Castle, built in the late 15th/early 16th century by Raasay’s very first Clan Chief, who also happens to be called Calum Macleod.

    Cave kayaking

    If you fancy heading out on the water, why not check out Raasay House Outdoor Centre, part of the Raasay House Hotel. Based in the 15th century mansion house, they offer a variety of outdoor activities, including kayaking and boat trips. On the water is a perfect way to spot wildlife, of which there is plenty, including otters and sea eagles. The beautiful mansion house has its own story to tell and is definitely worth visiting, even if you’re not staying there or taking part in their adventurous offerings.

    Raasay Ironstone Mine

    Raasay Ironstone Mine

    Inverarish is the capital of Raasay and not far from both the ferry terminal and Raasay House. The quaint village is home to a small village shop and post office, gallery and of course the Isle of Raasay Distillery. Tours and tastings are available, and you can pre-book online via their website. For those not so keen on the Whisky, they also make their own gin.

    Discover the Isle of Raasay With Us

    Meet the Author: Kate Wilson

    It is my pleasure to guide others through the wild and beautiful landscapes of Scotland, whether on foot, by bike or by boat. Originally from Edinburgh, I began my guiding career while studying Adventure Performance and Coaching in Fort William, spending four years at the foot of Ben Nevis and summiting it 28 times (I’ll stop counting at 100!). My work has taken me from the Cairngorms to North Wales, where I completed a Masters in Applied Sport Science, before returning to Edinburgh to combine my NHS role as a physiotherapy assistant with guiding. I love physically challenging myself, exploring new places, and connecting the natural environment with human history - preferably after a plate of macaroni cheese worthy of my ratings list.

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    Wilderness Walking – Isle of Skye

    Love discovering Scotland’s hidden islands? Make the Isle of Raasay part of your next great adventure on our Wilderness Walking – Isle of Skye Itinerary. To download a PDF copy of this itinerary, containing full details about this tour, please complete the form below.



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