A Local’s Guide to Royal Deeside

While many visitors head to the nearby Munro of Lochnagar (a popular mountain that Queen Victoria once summited), hiking to the Coyles of Muick offers a quieter, shorter walk with stunning views and a revitalising sense of being alone in the hills. Beginning just outside the pretty Victorian village of Ballater, the Coyles can be approached from several sides; however, the finest route starts at Loch Ullachie, where there is space to leave a vehicle.

The Journey Begins

The first kilometre follows a forest track, steadily rising through mature conifers and emerging on a more open hillside. Breaking left, the path narrows and becomes a lovely ribbon of dark singletrack, snaking its way up the side of the forest. The distant view of Lochnagar soon comes into view, often adorned with snow well into late spring. As the path levels there are some boggy spots, but with some care, it is possible to keep your feet dry, and these marshy moments are short-lived as the way briefly steepens once more to reach the top.

The View from the Top

On the east summit, there is a large cairn which gives stunning panoramas over Balmoral Estate (the summer residence of the Royal Family) and towards the Mounth hills and Mount Keen. Another summit, close by, provides a breathtaking view into the rocky mouth of Lochnagar, the White Mounth and across the dark waters of Loch Muick. 

 

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Pick up Some Local Pastries from Courie Courie in Aboyne

Find this friendly bakery tucked in the heart of Aboyne, a picturesque village on the banks of the River Dee (and home to the oldest 18-hole golf course on Royal Deeside). Courie Courie is a welcoming space where everything is handmade from scratch with a focus on keeping local, truly local.

Recently awarded Supreme Champion at the 2026 Scottish Bread Championships, the bakery offers an sumtuous range of artisanal bread loaves, from ciabatta to its speciality, focaccia. Before head out to explore the region, take a peak at their counter to check for today’s mouthwatering pastries, including golden croissants, cinnamon swirls, and indulgent cruffins.

 

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Have Lunch at Potarch Café in Ballogie

Potarch Café sits on Ballogie Estate in the heart of Royal Deeside, close to the edge of the Cairngorms National Park. Popular with everyone from walkers and families to road cyclists, it’s dog-friendly too. It’s a lovely place to sit out on the wooden picnic benches in the sunshine or wander down to the river. If you’re feeling brave, you can even take a swim beneath the bridge — a favourite spot among local cold-water swimmers.

While you’re there, you can see the Dinnie Stones (or “Steens”), two giant granite boulders weighing a combined 332.49kg. They were made famous by the legendary strongman Donald Dinnie, who was born nearby in 1837. After you’ve admired the stones (and, of course, tried in vain to move them even an inch), make sure to pick up one of the café’s home-baked orange, chocolate, and sea salt cookies to enjoy on the move.

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Enjoy a Sweet Treat at the Highlanders Bakehouse in Crathie

Located just across from the gates of Balmoral Castle in Crathie, The Highlanders Bakehouse is a great little stop for anyone exploring the upper reaches of the valley. This quirky, welcoming bakehouse is also the owners’ family home, the garage now replaced with a bakery popular with visitors and locals alike. Warm and friendly, it operates on a takeaway basis, but there are nice long wooden benches to sit at and even blankets and hot water bottles to help you stay cosy as you enjoy your coffee, hot chocolate or tea.

The shelves are always packed with delicious loaves, focaccia and sourdough, along with indulgent artisanal bakes. Whether you’re stopping in for one of their loaded doughnuts or a speciality pastry, you’re sure to be tempted by all manner of delights. They can also be found in the nearby village of Braemar – known for its beautiful location and strong Highland character.

 

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Braemar Gallery is a wonderful place to discover original art and thoughtfully curated objects – a treasure trove of beautiful things. Come in and spend some time enjoying works that capture the beauty of the surrounding landscapes.

In the light-filled, cosy space you’ll find beautiful paintings, sculptures, prints and books, alongside delicious-smelling candles, striking jewellery and a thoughtful collection of cards. The perfect place to find a local gift for a loved one, or simply something to remember your time in Scotland, make sure to pop in while spending time in the area.