Loch Coruisk, Isle of Skye

The best time to visit Loch Coruisk is between April and October. It can get busy during the peak holiday season, so pre-booking a boat is strongly recommended. Both Bella Jane Boats and Misty Isle Boat Trips run regular crossings from Elgol.

As with any walk on Skye, preparation is key. From Loch Coruisk, you can follow the circular route around the loch, or, as I did, climb Sgurr na Stri. At 494 metres, it may be modest beside its Cuillin neighbours, but the views from the summit are unforgettable on a clear day. The path to the summit starts as a clear single track but soon becomes rockier and less defined the higher you climb. It is best to give this summit a miss in poor weather as conditions can quickly become treacherous.

If you are looking for a more adventurous way to reach Loch Coruisk, you can reach it on foot. Hiking in this part of Skye should not be underestimated. Skye’s weather can swing from clear skies to heavy mist in minutes, and when that happens, the trail quickly disappears. Expect rough, wet ground, and sometimes, without any obvious path. A good level of fitness is important, and so is confidence with navigation, as trails can be vague or disappear entirely across rock and bog. For those with the right experience and preparation, the journey on foot is every bit as rewarding as the destination itself.

Sligachan

Walking from Sligachan takes you on an 11 km route. This trail is not for the average walker. It can be strenuous at times, with sections of narrow, unpaved single track, but the views are worth every step when the weather plays fair. Once at the loch, you could take the boat back to Elgol (if you have transport arranged) or return to Sligachan on foot and toast your day in the cosy pub with a dram or a pint from the local Skye Brewery.

Sligachan Bridge

The reward for starting at Sligachan comes even before the walk begins, with the 18th-century stone bridge that carries mystery and folklore of its own. Legend says that if you dip your face in the water beneath the Old Sligachan Bridge, you will be granted eternal beauty. The tale comes from ancient stories of two warriors: Scáthach, the greatest warrior woman of Scotland, and Cúchulainn, the greatest warrior of Ireland. Hearing of her reputation, Cúchulainn travelled to Skye to fight her. Their battle shook the land, carving valleys, splitting mountains and shaping the island’s rugged ridgelines.

Scáthach’s daughter, fearing her mother might lose, wept by the river at Sligachan Bridge. In Scottish folklore, water is a gateway between the human world and the realm of the faeries. Hearing her cries, the faeries told her to wash her face in the river. As she did so, she gained the knowledge she needed to end the battle. She rushed home and prepared a meal, the scent rising on the wind. Both warriors, suddenly overcome with hunger, laid down their weapons to eat. By stepping into Scáthach’s home, Cúchulainn became her guest, bound by tradition to do her no harm, and the fighting ended. From then on, the river has been said to bestow eternal beauty, not only in the face, but in the landscapes that surround you: the mountains, the skies, the sea, and all that you see and feel.

From Kilmarie

An alternative hiking route begins at Kilmarie and stretches 9 km to Loch Coruisk, passing through the notorious ‘Bad Step’. The walk starts on a good double track, climbing gently before descending to Camasunary, a beautiful bay with a recently renovated bothy. The ruins of the old township can still be seen, and the bothy remains open as a welcome shelter. From here, the trail heads west, crossing the wide Abhainn Camus Fhionnairigh. This is best attempted at low tide – even then, expect to get wet. On the far side, the single track is easy to pick up again, leading around the foot of Sgurr na Stri. It is often muddy and boggy underfoot.

The Bad Step

How Bad is the Bad Step?

The notorious Bad Step appears not far before the path meets Loch Coruisk. It is a sloping rock slab feature that rises about 15 feet above the sea at high tide, so you will need a steady head for heights and confidence in your footing. In wet weather, it becomes especially slippery, so conditions are an important consideration before choosing this route. It is certainly an adventurous way to reach Loch Coruisk, though the boat from Elgol remains an equally memorable journey and brings the bonus of spotting marine life along the way.

Local Wildlife

The dramatic landscape that gives Loch Coruisk its wild and distinguished beauty is heightened by the folklore tied to it, particularly the tale of the Kelpies. For me, folklore matters. It keeps old stories alive, carrying knowledge from one generation to the next and helping to preserve heritage, identity and culture.

Loch Coruisk, the Cauldron of the Waters, is said to be home to the Kelpie – a mysterious shape-shifting water horse that can also take human form. Kelpies often appear as strikingly beautiful horses, luring people to climb onto their backs. But once you do, there is no escape. The horse charges into the depths of rivers or lochs, dragging its rider with it. Victims are stuck fast to the creature unless they can manage the dangerous feat of removing its bridle. Without its bridle, a Kelpie is powerless, though in legend it was said to have the strength of ten horses – a quality that would have been highly prized centuries ago.

Folklore adds its own kind of magic to landscapes like this. Stories such as the Kelpie are there to be told, enjoyed, and interpreted in different ways. Some say this one served a practical purpose too – a cautionary tale to keep children from wandering too close to the water’s edge.

Learn More About Water Mythology